New favourite restaurant in Barcelona

It’s been four years since I was last in Barcelona and during those four years we have both changed. Wushu, my favourite restaurant, has closed and I have started to eat more locally and seasonally. I credit my year in Barcelona for planting the seeds of a more seasonal diet but it was during the past three years getting most of my fruits and vegetables through a CSA scheme that really pushed me to appreciate foods grown closer to home. In Toronto I often eat at Fabarnak, which gets as much as 80% of its food from local sources. It shouldn’t be hard to find a similar place in Barcelona, I thought. I hit the jackpot with a place called Patxoca, near Mercat Santa Caterina.

I wish I could say I discovered my new favourite restaurant through word of mouth and that it is the kind of place you would know only if you lived here. That would be a lie. I got it from the TimeOut guide (which is in fact written by people who live in the city, so not that far off). The description in the guide book seemed enticing:

Describing itself as ‘agroecològic’, Patxoca endeavours to source produce locally (with the curious omission of most of its wines) and buys organic whenever feasible. The cornerstones of Catalan soul food are all present, from cap i pota (stew of calves’ head and meat) to salt cod, while homesick Brits can take comfort in a local take on shepherd’s pie (pastis de vedella) or cauliflower cheese.

Since we were on that side of the city, we decided to check it out for lunch. They were bound to have a lunch menu, I thought. And they did:

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The deal was good: for €10.90 we got appetizer, main, dessert, drink, and bread. To start, I had escabeche de sardinas y pico de gallo. The Pico de gallo was extremely fresh and the sardines were just right. For the main I was torn between the fish (gallo, a flat fish) or salsitxes de vic, a fresh pork sausage from the region north of Barcelona. The sausages won and came in a very tasty bean stew with a carrot pure. I loved the fact that the meal wasn’t oversalted as in many restaurants, allowing for the taste of the fresh ingredients to really shine. The meal was topped with fresh homemade flan. I asked the waiter if they had paella on thursday and his reply was simple and direct: “jueves? siempre!”

Thursday is paella day in Barcelona. For some reason, all the bars and restaurants that offer menu del dia have paella as one of the choices on thursdays. I wanted Dana to have a good paella in Barcelona so we decided to give Patxoco a try for paella day. We were not disappointed! Our paella came in a pan for three (as it should!) and the seafood was as fresh as it could be and the rice was cooked to perfection with seasonal vegetables (I spotted garlic scapes!).

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Eggplant paste with sardines

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Paella Marinera

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Greek Yogurt

I didn’t think Patxoco could make the meal any better until I ordered greek yogurt with honey for dessert. It was the most unctuous, sinful even, yogurt I ever tasted. We are leaving the day after tomorrow and I keep trying to think of opportunities to go to Patxoca again.

Patxoca
C/ Mercaders 28
Area: Born

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Packing for three weeks

We leave on May 14th and come back on June 6th. Three weeks is not that long and i decided to pack less than what I packed last time.

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Slow fashion

It started with the food. I started buying local produce and discovering how much more tasty they were. I then shifted my shopping to smaller shops and farmers’ markets where I got to meet shop owners and farmers and build relationships with those who produce and sell the food I buy. Having favoured traditional foods since a very young child, the whole slow food movement made a lot of sense to me.

It was a small step from slow food to slow fashion. I never really cared about clothes in my teens and early 20s. As I started to learn more about how to dress and started to develop my own style, I became increasingly dissatisfied with the chain stores that sold basically the exact same clothes, all over the world, in increasingly fewer colours. When I shopped in stores like Jacob or The Gap, I felt that my choices were limited by whatever the industry decided was the trend for that year. I remember wanting an orange top and walking into Jacob and finding that every single piece of clothing in the entire store was either white, black, grey, or purple. Suddenly I had four purple tops because that was basically the only lively colour around last year. It was like shopping in the large supermarket where we have the illusion of choice.

So why not look for the work of local designers that more closely fit in with my own sense of style and aesthetics?   Why not go into vintage shops where I actually could get an orange top if I wanted one? And that’s what I started doing. Fresh Collective has quickly become my favourite store. I started visiting the shop in the days when it was still called Fresh Baked Goods, the shop of Laura Jean, the Knitting Queen. I was a poor student then, couldn’t afford much but bought the odd sweater on sale. Now the shop has expanded into a cooperative of over a dozen local designers, selling jewelry, clothes, shoes, bags… Sure, the pieces are more expensive than at the gap. But they were also handmade by a local designer, are of higher quality, and will last me much longer. I have also decided I would rather have fewer, nicer things, than a lot of clothes I don’t wear. And there’s definitely something special about being able to talk to the person who designed the dress you are looking at and being able to ask specific questions about it. It is also the kind of place that makes you want to make clothes and jewelry yourself as well.

Turns out the concept of slow fashion has been around for a while. The whole notion of slow, of course, is not just about being able to afford more expensive handcrafted products. It is also about learning how to mend and make clothes yourself. This used to be an essential skill. I remember, as a child, that every household had a sewing machine and that my mother, who was no paradigm of homemaking and who worked or went to school full time, could at least do some basic sewing to mend our clothes and make some basic items. A lot of these skills seem have been lost in our ever faster world. So part of the slow movement is to reconnect to these basic skills.

Last year I learned to make butter. Perhaps this year I’ll learn to sew?

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Brown rice diet

I battled asthma, bronchitis, pneumonia, and respiratory allergies through most of my teen years and early twenties.  All symptoms disappeared after I moved to Canada, about 12 years ago. They would flare up whenever I went back to Brazil for a visit but they more or less disappeared. Unfortunately, last summer some of the symptoms have resumed – occasional wheezing, sneezing, chronic cough – and I have been battling them all Fall and Winter. Last week I finally made time to go see a naturopath. I have known, for long, the relationship between food sensibilities (not allergies) and all kinds of illnesses so I wasn’t surprised when my naturopath asked me undertake an elimination diet. The idea is to eliminate all of the most common allergens from my diet and then slowing re-introduce them one by one to see which one causes a reaction. So for the next ten days, I have to follow these rules:

Dairy

  • no milk, cheese, yogurt, ice cream or goat dairy

Starches

  • NO: wheat, spelt, rye, kamut, corn
  • YES: brown rice, oats, quinoa, millet, amaranth, buckwheat, sugar-free, gluten-free cereals; yeast free breads made with the above grains; pastas made with above grains; tapioca

Vegetables

  • No: nightshades – i.e. tomatoes, white potatoes, eggplant, peppers; also no corn or mushrooms
  • Yes: everything else and sweet potatoes

Fruit

  • NO: strawberries, grapes, melons, oranges, grapefruit, dried fruit
  • YES: everything else

Animal products

  • NO: Pork, bacon, ham; luncheon meats; shellfish; catfish; eggs
  • YES: wild cold water ocean fish; poltry; wild meats; organic, pasture-raised red meat

Legumes

  • NO: soy
  • Yes: chickpeas, lentils, beans, peas

Oils/Fats

  • NO: oils, except for:
  • Yes: olive oil, coconut oil, flax seed oil, sesame oil, tahini avocado

Condiments

  • NO: sugar, honey, maple syrup
  • Yes: lemon, herbs, spices, garlic, ginger, cayenne pepper, homemade mayo

Beverages

  • NO: caffeine, alcohol
  • Yes : water, herbal teas, unsweetened vegetable and fruit juices

Seeds and nuts

  • NO: peanuts, almonds
  • Yes: all seed and nut butters except the above

Other

  • NO: processed food, food additives, food preservatives, fried foods, yeast

The idea is to follow it for 10 days to two weeks and then start re-introducing one food at a time to see if there’s anything that makes my allergies more likely to flare-up. It may be that the cause is more environmental than food related. There are also connections between stress and grief with asthma and lung issues, which may be interesting to look at in the future since my issues seem to have gotten worse after Alan had his heart attack. Expect to see more recipes following the above guidelines on my food blog!

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Posted in Food, Health, Nutrition, Uncategorized | 3 Comments

Meet the Swift!

I’ve recently started knitting and crocheting so of course this turned inti an opportunity to acquire a new Tom Bihn bag. The Swift was designed on a survey among knitters on what they wanted out of their dream bag. It’s practical, roomy, light, and stylish, the hallmark of TomBihn products.

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Beija-flor de Nilópolis

On December 30th, we were walking along Copacabana beach, watching all the frantic preparation for the big New Year’s celebrations when we came across a crowd surrounding something. Upon investigation it turned out to be that Brazil’s main tv news was doing a piece with the musicians from Beija-flor, one of the main samba schools in Rio and the winner of many carnaval parades. Apparently they were one of the bands slotted to play during the New Years celebrations. We waited for a while to see if they were going to play but we were basically waiting around for the folks at the news headquarters to cue us in. The musicians were surrounded by a crowd, with their backs to metal barriers blocking out that section of the beach, where a massive stage was going up. After watching and snapping some pictures of the samba guys I turned my attention to the stage and asked one of the workers if I could go past the barrier to take a picture of the stage. He let me through, I snapped a couple pictures and when I was going back to the sidewalk I realized that if I walked to the right a bit I would have a clear shot of the samba guys. They saw me and gamely played along. The result was this awesome picture with the Copacabana Palace on the background:

 

Beija-flor de Nilópolis

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2012: a year of travel?

The year has certainly began with a bang. After two years of a Alan self-imposed ban on traveling to finish the dissertation, I’m now free again. Being employed helps, of course. So after a wonderful two weeks in Brazil (more about that to come; I have nine rolls of film at the lab!), I’m now waiting for a flight to Chicago. [OK, so maybe it is not that radical to fly to two countries within the same week, but did I mentioned I haven't traveled much in the past two years?]
Chicago soon!

Alan and I always joke about how insanely early we arrive at airports. Our flight to Brazil was scheduled for 10:30 PM. We were at the gate (past security and all) by 5:30 PM. I’m flying to Chicago out of the downtown airport here in Toronto. Because it’s such a small airport, the airline advises those traveling to the US to be at the check-in counter at least 60 mins before their flights. I dutifully show up at 6 AM for my 8:30 AM flight.

I don’t know why we do it. Partly we don’t want to be late so we leave early enough that if anything (and I mean ANYTHING) happens on the way to the airport, we can still arrive on time. One time the subway broke down, we had to go back a few stations, line up for shuttle buses, total chaos, and we still made it to the airport with plenty of time to spare. Mostly we simply try to avoid stress. Being early means I get to walk calmly to security, I don’t panic if there’s a line up, and I get to sit at the lounge and relax while people-watching.

Beats pacing at home.

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Mineiros and Catalans

I immediately fell in love with Catalonia and its people when I arrived there in April of 2006 for my year of research. I couldn´t quite explain why. Yes, it is a lovely place. But all of Spain is nice in its own way. I loved the people in Madrid and the walking path outside the walls of Segovia. But none of those places plucked my heart strings in the way that Catalonia did. I became immediately defensive when outsiders complained noticed how reserved most Catalans were. I pointed out that although they were not immediately efusive, that in time they opened up and could become the truest of friends.

The more I wandered around Catalonia, the more images like these struck a cord:
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It is only now, four years later, that I´m starting to understand what is it about that land and its people that attracts me. It all comes down to my own identity and roots. Although I was born in the state of Rio de Janeiro, in Brazil, I grew up moving around throughout Brazil. Rio de Janeiro was the city I lived in the most and originally I thought maybe I loved Catalonia because of the mix of mountains and sea shore. But that wasn´t it. I don´t feel the same way about British Columbia, after all. I also never felt truly a carioca (a native of Rio).

The place I´ve always felt most connected to in Brazil is Minas Gerais, a mountainous state known for its rural way of life, its quiet and reserved people who nevertheless love to travel. I *get* and appreciate their reserved nature, their colloquialism. My father´s family hails from Minas (and so does my maternal grandfather) and it was in the small town of Leopoldina that I spent the happiest summer vacations of my childhood.

This holiday season, Alan and I decided to come and visit Leopoldina. I´m writing from here. Through the process of explaining the place to an outsider and re-examine once again the mineiros and this lovely land after 14 years away, I´ve started seeing the many similarities with Catalonia. Looking at landscape like this:

 

brought back to mind the image of the rolling hills at the plain of Vic, half way between Barcelona and the Pyrenees. I now, seeing this land and these people anew after fourteen years, understand better why Catalonia resonated so much and struck such a deep cord.

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The best speech

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RIP Steve

A very sad day. The world lost a genius.

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